The Island of Healing

For a truly restorative vacation, visit the therapeutic waters of Ischia.

According to Ancient Greek legend, the origin story of the Italian island of Ischia is a violent one. Zeus, king of the gods, clashed in an almighty battle with the Titan monster Tifeo on the Bay of Naples, and after defeating him, buried the monster under piles of rocks. As Tifeo continued to rage, his fury transformed the rocks into volcanoes. In an ironic twist, it’s this volcanic rock that has made Ischia a destination for healing for centuries.

These volcanic origins created powerful thermal waters that are enriched with minerals like sulfur, iodine, and iron, giving them therapeutic benefits for respiratory diseases, arthritis and dermatitis. It was the Greeks who first discovered these powers—archaeological digs have revealed that the Euboeans, the first Greek tribe to live on the island, used the thermal waters to treat injured soldiers’ wounds. With the arrival of the Romans, the first “Thermae,” or baths, were built on the island so that the public could take full advantage of the waters. But it was during the Renaissance, when a physician called Giulio Iasolino reported incredible results from his tests on the island’s thermal waters, that word of the island’s powers spread.

While Italy continues to be one of the world’s most popular travel destinations, attracting nearly 41 million tourists every year, the glamor of Capri and the Amalfi Coast have become more familiar go-to destinations than the more rugged landscape of Ischia. But for those looking for a deeply reviving escape, this gem should be at the top of the travel list.

Combining centuries-old knowledge with contemporary design, the island’s best thermal parks have taken the place of the ancient Roman baths to give visitors a deeply relaxing experience. Several expansive parks are dotted across the island, but the two that stand out are Negombo and Poseidon Thermal Gardens. These are a far cry from the water parks you’d find elsewhere in the world—beautifully designed and sympathetic to their natural surroundings, these parks cater to every possible need. Both boast a number of pools of various temperatures, taking full advantage of the thermal springs, as well as access to a private beach and specialist spa treatments, including ones that use the mineral-rich clay mud from the island. With on site restaurants and bars, you can easily spend a whole day immersed in the waters and lounging in the sun.

For an indulgent self-care stay, consider booking in at one of the island’s best known spa hotels, the Hotel Mezzatorre. Perched on a rocky headland on the edge of the bay that houses Negombo, this picturesque retreat has become a go-to for the glamorous jetsetter to unwind. Built on the ruins of a 16th-century watchtower, the sun-soaked terracotta hotel hosts its guests in beautifully designed rooms surrounded by forest and unobstructed ocean views. Here, you can alternate between dips in the sea via the hotel’s private access, a swim in the dreamy pool overlooking the bay, and a restorative soak in the thermal spa. Specially designed around the hotel’s own natural thermal spring, the spa invites guests to indulge in a full reset, with its thermal and saltwater pool, Turkish sauna and mud therapy treatments.

Meanwhile, on an islet poking out into the sea, you’ll find Castello Aragonese d'Ischia, a castle built in the 5th century BC. The castle itself is a beautiful place to get lost for a day—you can easily spend hours wandering through the sandstone towers and gardens, taking in the remarkable views of the sea and back onto the main island. But for something even more special, book to stay overnight at the Albergo Il Monastero, the hotel housed in the castle’s old monastery. A stay here is the perfect balance of luxury experience with meditative surroundings. Rooms are comfortable but simplistic, honoring the monastic heritage of the space, but the opportunity to wander around the castle at your leisure and to sip spectacular negronis as you watch the sunset over the islands, is sure to leave you feeling inspired and rejuvenated.

The castle is also home to another hidden gem—Il Monastero’s restaurant, where guests pick from three six-course set menus created by local chef Michelangelo Iacono. Fresh, organic produce from the castle’s own garden and orchard and local suppliers are used to create dishes that honor Ischian traditions. The fresh ingredients and local focus make each dish not only irresistibly delicious, but also incredibly healthy, echoing the best benefits of the Mediterranean diet.

Finally, for those looking for a little more activity in between thermal soaks, Ischia boasts a number of incredible hiking trails. On top of the ocean view gym and outdoor tennis court, guests at Hotel Mezzatore can enjoy private walks through the estate’s private seven hectares. For non-guests, or those looking for more of a challenge, local group Ischia Hiking offers professional guides to show you the best routes through the steep hills, so you can leave the island feeling truly restored.

More July 2023