A dermatologist and esthetician share insight on the alpha- and beta-hydroxy acids available and how to best use them in your routine.
Skin-care acids can seem intimidating; the name alone evokes inflammation, stinging, and redness. And it’s true that the ingredients have the potential to cause irritation.
That doesn’t mean you’re better off without them. Acid ingredients can enhance your skin’s natural exfoliation process, resulting in a smoother, glowier, more even complexion.
The key to reaping the benefits while minimizing unwanted effects is to ease into using acids with products or treatments that are suited to your skin. Here’s a complete breakdown of how to do just that.
Acids 101
Your skin has a built-in renewal process, and acids provide a boost. “In skin care, acids refer to active ingredients that are used to improve the overall health and appearance of the skin,” says Lara Devgan, MD, plastic surgeon and founder of an eponymous skin-care line, now sold at The Shop.
As mentioned, acids encourage exfoliation, i.e., the removal of dead skin cells. And encouraging skin cell turnover in this way can combat various concerns, including hyperpigmentation (dark spots), acne, and signs of aging, explains Dr. Devgan.
Mechanical exfoliation — in which a brush, scrub, or sponge physically sloughs away dead skin cells — can be useful for at-home treatments, but it may be too irritating for some skin types, according to the American Academy of Dermatology Association. Acids are a type of chemical exfoliant, and they all fall under two main categories: alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs).
AHAs are water-soluble (i.e., able to be dissolved in water) and they exfoliate the top layer of skin, says Dr. Devgan. “AHAs work by loosening the bonds between dead skin cells on the skin's surface, allowing them to be sloughed off more easily,” she says.
On the other hand, “BHAs are oil-soluble acids, often synthesized from salicylic acid, that penetrate pores,” says Dr. Devgan. They’re able to travel to deeper into skin and break down buildup of dead skin cells and oil for removal.
Note: While the name may suggest otherwise, hyaluronic acid isn’t the type of acid that this article is referring to. The popular ingredient is actually a glycosaminoglycan, a molecule that can bind to water, hydrating skin.
How to Add Acids to Your Skin-Care Routine
If you’re hoping to smooth out fine lines, improve skin texture, and generally promote healthy skin, AHAs are the superior option. BHAs are especially helpful if you’re prone to breakouts, thanks to their ability to travel deeper into pores.
While there are many acid ingredients to choose from, three stand out in Dr. Devgan’s eyes:
• Glycolic acid, an AHA, improves texture, evens out skin tone, and is suitable for most skin types.
• Lactic acid is a gentler AHA that’s suitable for sensitive skin.
• Salicylic acid, the gold standard BHA, is particularly effective for reducing blackheads, whiteheads, and breakouts.
You don’t have to select a single acid. In fact, Dr. Devgan recommends seeking a product that combines all three of the above ingredients.
“This is often referred to as a ‘dual exfoliation’ as they work synergistically to provide both surface exfoliation (AHAs) and deep pore cleansing (BHAs),” she says. “It's especially beneficial for those looking for an efficient solution to address multiple skin concerns.”
It’s best to exercise a bit of caution, especially if you’re new to acids. “Acids are often used in small concentrations in skincare products, making them safe and effective when integrated into your routine,” says Dr. Devgan. “However, there is still a significant possibility of over-exfoliating the skin if not used with discretion. Using high concentrations of acids too frequently or using multiple exfoliating products simultaneously can lead to irritation, sensitivity, and other adverse effects.”
Start with a product with a mild concentration when adding an acid to your routine, recommends Ping Yue, esthetician at The Spa at Equinox in Long Island, NY. For example, you might start out with 5 percent glycolic acid or 1 percent salicylic acid, then graduate to more potent products if your skin responds well.
“Start with using the product two times per week in the morning, followed by moisturizer and a sunscreen of at least SPF 30,” says Yue. (Sunscreen is extra important, since acids may increase UV sensitivity.) “Once your skin gets used to it, you can start using the product every other day or every day.”
The Benefits of Professional Treatments
For an even more effective route, you may opt for occasional professional treatments that incorporate acids. “Professional chemical peels are generally very powerful,” says Yue. “They can target deeper levels of the dermis and treat moderate to severe wrinkling, sun damage, and pigmentation.”
The tradeoff is that more powerful treatments carry a higher risk of causing redness or burning, so it becomes extra important to take protective measures. “After a professional peel treatment, your skin is very sensitive to the sun, easier to break, and more prone to uneven tone if you don’t use sunscreen during the healing time, which usually takes about a week,” says Yue.
You can find treatments that incorporate acids at any Equinox Spa location. “We use moderate AHAs or BHAs during facials as an enhancement for the treatment of fine lines, wrinkles, uneven skin tone, pigmentation, or acne,” says Yue. Treatments that incorporate peels include the Renew Facial, Microdermabrasion Facial, and the HydraFacial, which each focus on exfoliation.
To sum it all up, acids can fight signs of aging, reduce blemishes, and boost the overall health of your skin, and you can take steps to incorporate them into your routine without causing irritation. Both skin-care products and professional treatments can yield noticeable results.