Learn what makes a skin-care brand truly science-driven.
Those who want a glimpse into the minds of science-minded skin-care enthusiasts need to look no further than the subreddit r/skincareaddiction. There, users post “shelfies” and seek advice, throwing around jargon like “sebaceous filaments” and “post-inflammatory erythema.”
The page is three million members strong, and recent trend reports further confirm that interest in the science of skin care is widespread. “Science-backed formulations will continue to reign as consumers question the validity of ‘clean beauty,’ and radical honesty will be demanded,” reads consumer trend forecaster WGSN’s The Future of Skincare 2026.
Tera Peterson, aesthetician and co-founder of the microcurrent device brand NuFace, has observed this call for scientific accountability from beauty companies. “From a claims perspective, companies are really held to very stringent guidelines, and most companies have teams to regulate what we can and can't say,” says Peterson. “Not everybody abides by those rules, but I've been around enough to know that you'll get called out. And now with TikTok, people will call you out instantly, so you really want to be tightened up.”
Skin-care products are regulated by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) as cosmetics. Unlike drugs, cosmetics don’t require FDA approval to hit the market, though the agency can take action if it has “reliable information indicating” that a product is adulterated or misbranded. Devices, such as NuFace’s products, are subject to stricter regulation than serums, moisturizers, etc., and need to be FDA-cleared before hitting the market.
While the FDA has guidelines around brands’ claims, that doesn’t mean that companies don’t use scientific-sounding language in ways that could be misleading. A 2018 article in BMJ Open highlighted this practice of “scienceploitation,” when companies capitalize on “popular scientific ideas” in exaggerated, false, or deceptive marketing.
RELATED: The Art of Subtle Cosmetics
Several key factors distinguish brands that can genuinely call themselves “science-driven,” says Peterson. Namely, they should have clinical studies conducted on their products and put care into ingredient quality and potency, she says.
Brands like NuFace that sell devices need to be especially reliant on research, says Peterson. With microcurrent devices in particular, “you could have microcurrent, but it's very erratic,” she says. “That's not going to give you the results. So it needs to be true clean technology, and clinical studies in all aspects really prove that your product is efficacious.”
Efficacious microcurrent devices can deliver both instant and long-term results, says Peterson. “[Microcurrent devices] actually work on the cellular level to increase ATP, which is the energy of our cells,” she says. “With age, our cellular frequency starts to slow down, so microcurrent essentially is increasing that cellular vibration and frequency.”
Another brand created with a heavy focus on skin function, 111SKIN hit the market in 2012. Plastic and reconstructive surgeon Yannis Alexandrides, M.D., co-founded the brand with his wife Eva Alexandrides after noticing a gap in products that offered strong reparative effects without irritating sensitive skin. 111SKIN’s formulas feature ingredients like NAC Y2, a complex that combines vitamin C, escin (a plant extract with anti-inflammatory properties), and NAC (a building block of the antioxidant glutathione).
While many skin-care companies aim to convey an emphasis on science, it’s not always authentic, according to Yannis. “There are very few commercially available skin-care brands that conduct the specific clinical studies necessary to be considered ‘science-driven,’” he says. “The skin-care business is relatively unregulated and sometimes claims can be fabricated or presented in a misleading manner.”
It stands to reason that brands that go the extra mile with their research may reap the benefits of a more effective product. Augustinus Bader, co-founder of the eponymous skin-care brand, credits the success of the brand in part to its standards. “When creating formulas, we go through a multiple-step process that includes vigorous testing via third-party clinical and user trials to ensure proven, visible results before we bring anything to market,” he explains.
A biomedical scientist and physician, Bader spent three decades developing technologies that call on the body’s regenerative abilities, including a wound gel that provides scar-free healing. “I am a scientist by profession and don’t have the traditional beauty product development background,” he says.
RELATED: What You Need to Know About Longevity Skincare Science
Bader’s co-founder Charles Rosier saw an opportunity to apply Bader’s knowledge to skin care, and Bader developed the ingredient TFC8, a combination of natural amino acids, high-grade vitamins, and synthesized molecules that’s central to Augustinus Bader products.
Bader predicts that interest in the science of skin care will continue to grow. “The attention is shifting towards the science and efficacy of the brand rather than vague branding and unrealistic claims,” he says. “As consumers become more educated on skin care, they are conscious of their choices.”